National Parks visited: Five Rocky Mountain NP in Colorado Windcave NP in South Dakota Badlands NP in South Dakota Theodore Roosevelt NP in North Dakota Glacier NP in Montana
10-Day Northern Plains Road Trip We have been wanted to visit Mount Rushmore for quite sometime. This is our chance to combine the world famous monument and the National Parks in this Northern Plains area. From the magnificent Colorado mountain views in Colorado, turns into the vast Northern Plains, we traveled 3000 miles, driving thru narrow highways up the rocky, then thru the open northern plains where you drive miles and miles thru the green fertile grass land on both sides of the highways. We drove the scenic drive of “Going-to-the-Sun Road” with breath taken sceneries in between; This is a road trip of a lifetime! On this trip we crossed the six great states of Colorado, South Dakota, North Dakota, Montana, Idaho, and Wyoming. We visited five National Parks: Rocky Mountain NP in Colorado; Wind Cave NP and Badlands NP, in South Dakota; Theodore Roosevelt NP in North Dakota; and Glacier NP in Montana. Each offers its own spectacular character and uniqueness.
Day01 – Arriving Denver, CO
We got to Denver in the morning. It’s a relaxing day. We explored the Cherry Creek State Park near our hotel. Since we had an early flight today, decided to just relax, got some Z, then had dinner at a nearby Texas Roadhouse. Service was attentive and steak was good. It's funny that Texas Roadhouse neither starts in Texas or Colorado, but rather a Kentucky's own chain restaurant...:)
Day02 – Rocky Mountain National Park, Colorado Denver to Rocky Mountain NP: 1 h 34 min (73.9 mi) via I-25 N and US-36 W
We left the hotel in Aurora around 7am this morning. We drove the big loop, circling the east side of Denver to avoid the morning traffic in the downtown area. We got to Estes Park, a nice little touristy town that’s just on the outskirt of the Rocky Mountains NP at around 9am. We had breakfast here in this touristy, sleepy town at this time of the year and started exploring the park at around 10am. Looking around while having breakfast, we spotted a restaurant with a peculiar name: “You Need Pie” restaurant. What a name!
After viewing a short film about the park with its 415 square miles of spectacular mountain environments at the visitor center, we drove the Bear Lake road to Bear Lake for a short hike. On the way, we stopped at Sprague Lake and did a little walk around the lake, soaking in the nice fresh mountain air and the mild morning sunshine, chit chatting with fly fishermen along the lake. It was quite a pleasant walk with throng of other tourists, doing the same thing. We definitely made good use of our life-time National Park Pass. We stopped along many overlooks to experience spectacular views of the park then drove on to the Bear Lake, hiking around the lake in the snow. Yes, snow in late May.
After a lunch break we then took another scenic drive on the Trail Ridge road in the park, with pretty wild flowers dotted the landscape along the way. Before the road closure at the Rainbow Curve, we had a chance to see the spectacular view of mountain ranges. The park was about 10,000 feet high. I got a little light-headed because of the high altitude, but the awesome views sure made you forget the little discomfort. The roads are well maintained. We saw moose on the side of the road. This time is not quite a summer tourist season yet, so we did not feel like having to compete with thousand others for space.
It sure felt like we were on Top of the World!
Day03 & 04 – The Black Hills of South Dakota Fort Collins, CO to Rapid City, SD:5 h 19 min (333.3 mi) via US-85 N
We spent two days here exploring the Black Hills area of South Dakota.
We left Fort Collins, CO at around 6am today heading north. The weather was a bit cloudy but no rain. From Fort Collins to Cheyenne and beyond, it was truly a northern plains’ image. We saw green field after green field of vastness that stresses for miles. Black cows dotted the field here and there. To feel the awesomeness, just roll down the car’s window, to be overwhelmed yourself with the rush of fresh cold air blowing into your face. Small deer with antlers grazing the land, and they casually looked up at cars passing by with no fear. Ah, this is what the Northern Plains is all about. It’s about nothing, but yet you felt overwhelm with its vastness, nothingness. We took the Interstate 25 north to Cheyenne then US 85 north thru most of Wyoming. Along the way we passed little towns with western-named store fronts, how cute are these names that reflect the cowboy culture in this part of the country. The highways in Wyoming and South Dakota are well maintained. You would drive miles after miles with not a single car passed you by.
Wind Cave National Park We got to the Wind Cave National Park at around 11am and signed up for the Natural Entrance Tour which took us down into the cave at about 200 feet below ground level. The local Indians had been in and out of this cave thousands of years. This maze of passages is home to boxwork, a unique formation rarely found elsewhere.
We saw bison roaming around just outside the park, they said it can weight up to 2,000 lbs. Its hair is denser than cattle hair to withstand extreme temperature. We drove slowly to pass them, we looked at them with cautious eyes, and they looked at us like what’s the matter with you guys? Then we passed each other without saying a word. Here and there in the park we saw large patches of flat surface with small hills dug up by prairie dogs. They munch using their two front legs, while observing us on their mounds.
Crazy Horse Memorial After visiting the Wind Cave National Park, we went to see the Crazy Horse Memorial. The work of carving this gigantic man on the horse is still going on. It started more than 50 years ago by Chief Henry Standing Bear who invited sculptors to carve a mountain honoring the culture of North American Indians. Today, this tribute is still incomplete. We were going to take the bus tour up close to view the face of this Indian chief, but thunder storm was in the surrounding area so they cancelled the tour.
Badlands National Park The next day, on the way to Badlands National Park on Interstate 90, we saw quite a lot of small billboards along the highway advertising ‘Wall Drug’. Among the advertisements was fresh 5 cents coffee, homemade pie, free coffee and doughnut for veterans, free iced water…etc. So we decided to stop by to check out this place. It’s a western theme complex with lots of different shops inside. It takes up a large portion of the Main Street of the city named Wall. There were a lot of old pictures hanging on the wall. Train for kids to ride, park benches with cowboys and bar girls sitting there lifeless for you to pose with. It was sure a fun place to browse around.
The weather was a bit cold and misty today, but the park was awesome. We drove the Badlands Loop Road (Highway 240) and stopped at multiple look out points to soak in the rugged beauty of the Badlands, the dramatic landscape spans layered rock formations, steep canyons and towering spires. These geologic wonders contain Ancient mammals such as rhinos, horses, and saber-toothed cats that once roamed here.
Mount Rushmore National Memorial We left the park around noon to go to the magnificent Mount Rushmore National Memorial, the largest statue-monument in the world. The faces of four American presidents - George Washington, Thomas Jefferson, Theodore Roosevelt and Abraham Lincoln - were carved into the granite mountainside high above the treetops of the Black Hills. The carving took 14 years to complete and serves today as a priceless shrine of democracy. It was an inspired place. We were quite emotional when standing in front of these massive statues and thinking about how lucky we were for the freedom we are having.
Black Hills is also where the annual Sturgis Motorcycle Rally takes place. When that happens, usually in August, this area is jam-packed with bikers rumpling up and down these highways thru many little towns. There would be half a million people congregate in this area when the bike rally takes place. In 2015, during the 75 anniversary, there were almost a million people came here. The whole population of the state of South Dakota is less than that. The point is, try to avoid august time in this area unless you are a bike enthusiast.
We stayed in Hill city which offers convenient access to many attractions in the area. Tonight, we decided to try dinner at Alpine Inn. It’s a hotel that also has a restaurant. At lunch time they serve German cuisine, but at night, they only serve steak; two sizes of filet mignon steaks (6 oz or 9 oz). Dinner comes with a wedge of salad, with cream dressing (one kind only). Steak served with Texas toast and bake potatoes. Food was delicious, and service was amazing. It seems like they have their service down like a well oiled machine.
We arrived at about 4:30pm to get in line for the 5pm seating, that’s when they open. We were there and of courses others already packed the little bar in front of the dinning area. The bartender said it is a first come - first served operation, and if you are in the bar you will be seated, no problem. She said they can seat 150 people at a time. When the door’s open it was kind of a rush for the door.
Day05 – Theodore Roosevelt National Park, North Dakota Rapid City, SD to Theodore Roosevelt NP:3 h 57 min (239.0 mi) via US-85 N
We drove thru three states today, South Dakota, North Dakota and Montana. The North Dakota’s highway from Rapid City to Roosevelt NP was quiet and lonely. On both sides of the highway are green fields with cows grazing on them. On some stretch of the highway, it is as straight as an arrow. We saw mule deer along the way. We got to Theodor Roosevelt NP at around 11:30am. This was where Sitting Bull fought and General Custer hounded the Sioux. It’s very similar to the eerily eroded badlands, like the Badlands National Park in South Dakota, but less crowded.
Teddy Roosevelt came here from back East in 1883 to hunt buffalo. The landscape, the rough life changed him from a scrawny New Yorker to strapping western adventurer.
The weather was nice and balmy 60. We drove the park loop, saw the movie and walked the short trail. We saw bison and horses along the way. We were going to check out the Chateau the Mores near by, where Marquis de Mores once claimed “I shall be the richest financier in the world!” But it is not open for the season yet.
Day06 - Tracing the Lewis & Clark National Historic Trail from Glendive, MT to Great Falls, MT; Pompeys Pillar National Monument Glendive to Billings: 3 h 19 min (220.5 mi) via I-94 W Billings to Great Falls: 3 h 39 min (217.4 mi) via MT-3 N
We left the hotel early this morning and decided that instead of taking small state highways, we would take the interstate 94 to Billings in order to visit the Pompeys Pillar National Monument. Heading west, the monument is on the Interstate just before Billings. This big piece of rock is where William Clark was once passed by and left his signature on it during his expedition in the northwest. The Interpretive Center exhibits the journey of Captain William Clark and his group, including Sacagawea and her son Pomp, down the Yellowstone River Valley in 1806. Along the interstate, there were signs that indicated this is the portion of the trail that once was used by these pioneers traveled along the Yellowstone River but with primitive means, just imagine how difficult that was for Captains Meriwether Lewis and William Clark to explore the area more than 200 years ago.
Day07 – Glacier National Park, Montana via “Going-to-the-Sun” road Great Falls to Whitefish: 3 h 48 min (219.7 mi) via I-15 N and US-2 W
We drove to the east entrance to glacier national park, thru the city of St Mary. Nice scenery on the way to the park, unfortunately the station was closed, so we did not get much information. The sign posted at the entrance said we can drive the Going-to-the-Sun road for 6 miles. It’s closed due to snow at high altitude. We took a few nice stops along the lake at Scenic viewpoints for the spectacular view of Glacier's forests, alpine meadows, rugged mountains, reflect over the beautiful lake Saint Mary. We then drove around the park thru the southern end of it. We reached the west entrance at around 1:30pm. The park is open on this side and there’re more activities here, people go canoeing and camping here. The highway is also closed but the first 11 miles from this side is open. We drove along the lake McDonald and soaked in the views and the weather. It was nice fresh air with spectacular mountain views but no mountain goats or grizzly bears to be seen.
Tonight we had dinner at the Whitefish Lake restaurant in the golf course. We had the surf and turf with big shrimps cooked just right; the steak is flavorful, served with green beans, glazed carrots, and horse radish potato cakes. The food was great; the service was fast and friendly.
Montana highways are well kelp, but felt a bit of isolation in some area, many small towns along the way look like towns in Alaska.
Day08 – Scenicdrive from Whitefish, Montana to Idaho Falls, Idaho Whitefish to Idaho Falls: 6 h 59 min (434.7 mi) via I-15 S
It’s a traveling day today. We drove thru scenic Montana highways with mountains and lakes. Pine trees’ reflection on the calm surface of the lake in the morning gave you a sense of serenity. It’s an easy 6hrs of driving time. We made a quick stop for restroom here and there for about 15 min. each in every two hours; we took a lunch break for about an hour. We left Whitefish around 7am and made it to Idaho Falls at around 3pm. Interstate hwy in Idaho has speed limit of 80mph just like in Montana. I did not realize that Montana’s lands are fertile and filled with ranches raising livestock’s and growing crops. There is a farm that I saw along the highway that I estimated of 100 thousands of cows grazing the land. The landscape starts to change once you pass Idaho; hills, rugged on one side, streams running on the other side with cottonwood trees along the bank.
We got to Idaho Falls at a reasonable time, so we decided to stroll thru the river walk in downtown Idaho Falls, near our hotel. It was a nice pleasant surprise. We walked to the Japanese garden that was all built by volunteers, nice work indeed.
Day09 – Scenic drive from Idaho Falls to Denver Idaho Falls to Denver: 9 h 21 min (594.3 mi) via US-191 S and I-80 E
We drove thru the magical Bridger-Tetons National Forest in the morning hours among the cloud-shrouded mountains. Got to Rock Springs for lunch. Checked in the hotel in Denver for the night then flew home the next morning.